New home studio build

How thick should my walls be, should I float my floors (and if so, how), why is two leaf mass-air-mass design important, etc.

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Soulshaker
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Soulshaker »

Soundman2020 wrote:
there are roofing nails sticking through the OSB. I was going to grind them flush but was advised by a roofer not to because it weakens shingles.
Right! Never, ever grind or cut protruding nails in roof decks. What you could do if you want to "beef up" the mass (and assuming that your ceiling is not vented-deck, and that the trusses have the load bearing capacity to support it) is to press Styrofoam panels of just the right thickness over the nails, then beef up over that in the normal way.
R-13/insulation / 2" air gap
Fill your air gap with insulation too, not just the framing. Completely filling the entire cavity is necessary to get maximum damping and maximum reduction in speed of sound, and therefore maximum reduction in MSM resonant frequency, which maximizes isolation.
Could I put strips of MLV on furring strips in-between the scissor joists on OSB to add mass?
I doubt that would work. How would you keep it in place? How would you seal the joints and the edges? Air-tight seals are critical for isolation. I would save your MLV for tuned traps and beefing up the speaker soffits, for example. Or return it to the store for refund.
It looks like your "attic" need to breathe.
Very likely. That looks like a ventilated deck roof, probably with air inlets under the eaves and a ridge vent on top. That has to breathe. And therefore cannot be the outer-leaf of the MSM system. Sometimes you just have to go three-leaf.
So your outer leaf would be inside out modules that slide up in between your joists.
That would work, but it would be complicated to do with scissor trusses, due to the the angels of the various components. The modules would have to be strange shapes and sizes, with tapered framing. It would be easier / cheaper / faster to just put up OSB and a couple of layers of drywall directly on the bottom of the trusses, and seal that to the walls. That leaves the entire attic space free to ventilate, then you can build the complete inner-leaf room within that "shell". With an inside-out inner-leaf ceiling there would still be plenty of ceiling height.

- Stuart -

Yes the outer shell has air inlets under the eaves and a ridge vent on top. I thought I could use proper vents to keep a channel for air from the eaves to ridge then put drywall or MLV somehow mounted to the scissor joists and then fill the cavity with insulation to create a 2 leaf system. I'm realizing this may not be possible now after reading your comments. If I went the other way as you stated with OSB and a couple of layers of drywall on the bottom of scissor joists how much low end isolation do you think I would lose?
SAM CA
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Re: New home studio build

Post by SAM CA »

Soundman2020 wrote:...without large differences in temperature between indoors and outdoors, then you don't even need the HRV. All they do is save you on cooling or heating costs, because they can recover some of the heat in the incoming fresh air or outgoing stale air, and transfer it to the other stream. ...
- Stuart -
Hello Stuart, my first post here.

I get the humidity/temperature part of the explanation but what about the smell? I live in part of Southern California where the temperature and humidity don't change violently, so I probably won't need the HRV/ERV in that sense, but what about the smell? My garage is only 20' X 20' so it's way smaller than Jason's. I know the mini-split unit (still undecided about the model) is going to have a filter that recycles the same air over and over. I'm thinking adding the HRV/ERV might just add another weak point in terms of isolation/sound proofing. I can probably leave the door open from time to time to air out the room.
Soundman2020
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Soundman2020 »

Hello Stuart, my first post here.
Hi. Please read the forum rules for posting (click here). You seem to be missing a couple of things! :)
but what about the smell?
That's why you need to dump the stale air, and bring in fresh air! You can't just circulate the same old roomful of air over and over: it will get very ugly, pretty fast....
so I probably won't need the HRV/ERV in that sense, but what about the smell?
Then skip the HRV, and just run the small ducts that would have gone through that, directly to the outside world.
My garage is only 20' X 20'
So 400 square feet, assuming a ceiling height of 8 feet, that's 3600 cubic feet. You would need a mini-split that can circulate about 360 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) through the room, and you would need to dump about about 90 CFM of stale air from that to the outside world, and replace it with about 90 CFM of fresh air, brought in from the outside world. Those are rough estimates: you would need to get your HVAC contractor to refine them for you.
I know the mini-split unit (still undecided about the model) is going to have a filter
Mini-split units usually do have a filter, yes, but it's just a very simple filter that removes dust from the air. That's all. You need access to the unit so you can clean the filter regularly.
I'm thinking adding the HRV/ERV might just add another weak point in terms of isolation/sound proofing.
Not really: the HRV is completely outside the outer-leaf of the studio itself, so it has no effect on isolation. What affects isolation most, is the design and installation of the silencer boxes.
I can probably leave the door open from time to time to air out the room.
Nope! :) That doesn't work. Many first time studio builders start out thinking like that, but soon realize why it won't work. Your room is sealed totally air-tight, twice over. If you open the door, nothing happens! The air just sits there, going nowhere, not moving... because there is nothing to make it move! It won't move unless you give it a reason to move. Unlike a typical room in a house, there are no "leaks" into the room, through all of the gaps, cracks, holes and other paths, that would allow air to move. There are no windows, no other doors... nothing! So there's no way for air to move into the room, or to move out of it.

You need ducts and fans to do that. You need one duct that takes air out of the room, and another duct that puts air into the room, and you need to have a fan in one of those ducts. Otherwise, the air does not move.


- Stuart -

- Stuart -
SAM CA
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Re: New home studio build

Post by SAM CA »

Thank you very much Stuart. Sorry about the location. I did it last night, but I just realized when I hit the submit button on the profile page, nothing happens. I used a different browser and that did it.

Yes, I definitely need an in-take/out-take system. That simple filter won't do anything.
Soulshaker
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Soulshaker »

Hi fellow studio alumni, I am getting back to working on my studio build after healing from a surgery. I'm at the point where I'm going to insulate my outer shell ceiling and inclose with a layer of OSB and 2 layers of sheetrock. I'm not sure what R value to use. I believe from talking with local contractors that R 30C for cathedral style ceilings is what I should use but wanted to check the pros. Your expertise is greatly appreciated.
Gregwor
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Gregwor »

Above your outer leaf, use whatever meets code.

Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
Soulshaker
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Soulshaker »

Thanks Greg, those R-values meet code in Virginia, I'm uncertain whether I should fill entire scissor joist with insulation still leaving a small gap at top with rafter vents or just insulate 1 layer like a normal ceiling. Is there a benefit to filling with more? Also is 1 layer of 5/8" OSB and 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock with green glue the best way to go to enclose ceiling?
Thanks again,

Jason
Gregwor
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Gregwor »

I'm uncertain whether I should fill entire scissor joist with insulation still leaving a small gap at top with rafter vents or just insulate 1 layer like a normal ceiling.
Above your outer leaf, in the joists, just fill it "normally". It needs space for air to circulate. In between an inner and outer leaf, you want the entire cavity full of insulation (not squished in though).
Also is 1 layer of 5/8" OSB and 2 layers of 5/8" sheetrock with green glue the best way to go to enclose ceiling?
This is something you need to figure out for your needs. I made a simple calculator to help determine what sheathing you would need in order to achieve your isolation goals in a fully decoupled two leaf system:

http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewt ... =1&t=21770

Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
Soulshaker
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Soulshaker »

Gregwor wrote:
I'm uncertain whether I should fill entire scissor joist with insulation still leaving a small gap at top with rafter vents or just insulate 1 layer like a normal ceiling.
Above your outer leaf, in the joists, just fill it "normally". It needs space for air to circulate. In between an inner and outer leaf, you want the entire cavity full of insulation (not squished in though).

So there is no benefit in putting more insulation as in this pic? I did leave a space at top for airflow with rafter vents. I thought stacking some extra insulation in scissor joists where it gets deeper would be of benefit. Can you explain why it isn't? Thank you Greg
Gregwor
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Re: New home studio build

Post by Gregwor »

Insulation doesn't provide isolation by itself so increasing the amount of isolation in your attic area there won't help your cause.

Greg
It appears that you've made the mistake most people do. You started building without consulting this forum.
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