Rehearsal Space in Katy Texas

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HVAC plan

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I made some corrections to the framing where the contractors still had some top plates connecting the inner and outer wall together. I wanted to make sure it did not get left this way and covered up while I was not around. Now the inner wall and outer wall have no connections. I was fully expecting some misunderstanding even though I prepared detailed plans. I had to keep an eye on the framing and point out the things that were not correct and detrimental to sound isolation techniques. It was easier just to make the final corrections to the framing myself.

Erik

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The doors for the entry room and bathroom were installed. The super door into the sound isolation room will still need to be constructed by me. I ordered the glass for the exterior window. It was difficult finding someone who would supply the special order for a reasonable price. I re-calculated two 1/2" thick laminated glass panes to match the isolation of the double walls since I reduced the OSB to 7/16" thickness. More on the window shortly.

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I installed the plumbing rough-in for the bathroom as this was part of the agreement with the contractor to reduce the project budget cost. I used pex water line for the first time ever. I was impressed that there were no leaks after crimping all the fittings with the specialty crimping tool.

Erik

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The contractor is installing the ledger/scab/ dead wood (whatever terminology you want to use) for the 3 layers of drywall to be installed in between the rafters. This is the area I discussed earlier in the design where there will be a triple leaf in the lower roof area only to allow soffit to ridge vent ventilation under the roof decking. I beefed up the mass to 3 layers of 5/8" drywall for the middle layer. I like the temporary scaffolding they installed and it came in handy for me to seal the edges with backer rod and caulking.

Erik

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The 3 layers of 5/8" drywall has been installed in the lower roof area and I am sealing the layer behind them. The temporary scaffolding is really handy. In some of the corner areas where there are odd shaped gaps, I used the putty packs. I would recommend these to everyone. They are very convenient.

Erik

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The top ceiling leaf consisting of 7/16" OSB and 5/8" drywall has been installed. The RSIC-1 sound isolation clips and furring channel are being installed on the ceiling joists for the bottom leaf of mass.

Erik

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Insulation in the ceiling

Erik

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The first layer of the ceiling inner leaf (7/16" OSB) has been attached to the furring channel. The wall insulation was installed and the first layer of wall inner leaf (7/16" OSB) has been installed by the contractor. I am sealing all the corners and edges with backer rod and caulk, or putty packs for the odd shaped corners.

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More backer rod and caulking

Erik

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The final layer of 5/8" drywall has been installed. I will seal the edges again as before.

Erik

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The concrete floor has been stained and sealed.

[DasProductions]

Great work!

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Thanks. And congratulations on the Superbowl win!

Erik

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I finished the window construction. That part I was concerned about. The contractor left it out of his bid which kept me lower on budget and he was not sure about it. So, I tackled that part myself. Originally, I wanted two windows for natural light and view of the back yard. Just for a worst case scenario, I priced two Overly windows (24" x 36") with 1/2" laminate each to make one window and it was around $3200. I had an email quote of around $350 to $500 for just each piece of glass if I were to build the window myself. So, I proceeded with revising the design to just have one window in the room (24" x 36") and build it myself to keep the budget down. When the time came to order the glass, the company told me $1,000 per piece of glass. I knew that was ridiculous, but I had a hard time finding someone else to get the glass made. Finally, after searching on Angie's List, I got a quote of $180 per piece of glass. If I would have known about this place before, I would have kept my original design idea of having two windows in the room. Too late now, I don't want to work backwards and start tearing things apart, so one window it is. Lesson learned is that I should have purchased the glass long ago and worked out the rough framing dimensions around the glass sizes that were secured.

I posted earlier about being unsure how to deal with the detail in Rod's book being an interior window and not sure about flashing, sill, etc. for an exterior window. I ended up using the exterior hardie trim as the stop for the exterior piece of glass. That way, there is only the small surface of the edge of the hardie trim board for water to sit on and if the caulking failed, the water would go down the exterior of the OSB that was protected by the homeshield barrier. I painted the inside of the hardie trim white, set some neoprene setting blocks directly on the rough opening frame, put the glazing tape around the inside and outside perimeter of the glass, set it in place, and nailed in a piece of pvc trim for the stop. I used the rough opening framing (24"x36") directly and ordered the glass at 23 3/4" x 35 3/4". The detail in Rod's book called for building a wood frame, but the rough opening framing was pretty straight, level, etc., so I took a chance and got more window area this way. I filled the gap between the two leaves with acoustic ceiling tile. I put the next pvc trim wood stop, inner piece of glass, and final wood trim piece to hold it in place. Working with the double sided glazing tape was difficult. I am sure there are techniques involved that I did not adhere to. So, some of the black glazing tape is not very straight. The acoustic ceiling tiles got nicked in the process and I smeared some white caulking. So, it is not the prettiest thing, but the first and probably only window I will ever build.

Erik

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