Design Studio in Basement

[Guest]

I don't really mind about sound coming out. Kids have been used to me making noise since they were babies. It's more about sound coming in for recording.
I'm wondering if Mass loaded vinyl would be the right approach or just close the box with some Roxul in it?
http://www.acoustiguard.com/fire-rated- ... materials/
http://www.acoustiguard.com/Barrier-mat ... ded-vinyl/

I'll start to read more about star grounding…

Thanks

[Soundman2020]

I'm wondering if Mass loaded vinyl would be the right approach or just close the box with some Roxul in it?

I have done both, and they both work well, but deciding on which way to go depends on the situation. For example, one place I did MLV is in the ceiling above my small home theater: The soil pipe form the upstairs bathrooms runs through that area, and was creating a lot of noise. I didn't have any easy way of boxing it in, since the ceiling there (bathroom floor) is concrete slab. So no stud bays. Also, I was very tight on space, since the ceiling is already low in that area. So I wrapped the pipe in mineral wool, wrapped that in two layers of MLV sealed up tight, and then put in the drywall ceiling, with the top surface of the ceiling just an inch below the MLV, with an inch of fiberglass on top. The result is silence. You cannot hear the water at all now, and no sound from the speakers gets back up through the pipes. However, if I would have had stud bays up there with the pipe fully contained in one bay, I probably would have just filled that bay with mineral wool, and sealed it off with drywall held in place with cleats, as high up as possible, then hang the ceiling below that.

MLV is not such nice stuff to work with: it is not very strong, and tears easily, and it is hard to hold on place while you work, since it wants to unwrap itself all the time. It is also hard to seal it up at the edges. It is also expensive! So if you can figure a way to seal up your pipes without MLV, then that¿s what I would do. My main reason for using it as above, was because of the lack of stud bays, and because I could easily shape it to whatever form I needed, following the twists and turns of the pipe.

- Stuart -

[afavreau]

Hi Stuart,

My contractor will be starting next monday but I don't know if I will be ready since I may need to order special material ahead.

1) So I'm wondering if I need to put something underneath and on top of the walls. Do you think that pads underneath are still necessary since they will be built up from the cement floor now? http://www.acoustiguard.com/Iso-Sill-Plate-Isolation/ Or would Ethafoam be a good solution?

2) Andy also mentioned something about Firestop, but I'm not sure what is that. Do I need that? If so, do I find this at my local store or is that something special I need to order?

3) I also have two water pipes following the upper corner of the two walls that are against the outside of the house. So I'm wondering how I should approach that. Do I need Mass-Loaddd Vinyl for that or this type of product?
http://www.acoustiguard.com/fire-rated- ... materials/
http://www.acoustiguard.com/Barrier-mat ... ded-vinyl/

Thanks for your help

[afavreau]

Sorry. For some reason I didn't see your answer above just before posting. Thanks for #3.
Questions # 1 and 2 still remains though.

Thank you so much

[afavreau]

In my case, the pipe will be IN the studio as the picture can show up there. No ceiling will cover i, so that's why i'm hesitant.

[andy_eade]

Hi Andre,

Firestop is not a product you can buy, but rather a design element you need to create and build in independently framed walls. Rod details it quite nicely in his book and if you haven't already read this I would urge you to do so. It will really help explain some of these things to your contractor and you can show him the diagrams (I even lent my copy to my electrician and framing guy).

Essentially you are ensuring that your cavity between the two walls does not become a chimney, whilst maintaining isolation between the two structures. Keep in mind that fire could spread up insight your walls to the upstairs without you even knowing for some time. Additionally if your basement is really well soundproofed your family upstairs may be in danger without you knowing, or you could end up trapped!

I'm no expert on the how-to, but I followed the detail in Rod's book and had them constructed with sheetrock. You can see the pics in my old build thread. There are other ways too as far as I know.

Hope that helps - good luck!

Andy

[afavreau]

Sorry for my ignorance, but how can I find your Build thread and Rod's book you mention?

Thanks for help

[andy_eade]

Hey Andre,

Rod's book can be found at most online retailers and is called "home recording studios build it like the pros" his full name is Rod Gervais.

My (far less useful and informative) build thread, in particular the page that has photos of the Firestop details is here.

Cheers,

Andy.

[afavreau]

Thanks Andy,

I bought he book and I'll get it by Monday.
Also, I guess this is the picture you are referring to right?
Because there's a small 2 X 4 structure above the main structure?
That's the idea?

[afavreau]

Oups! That's the picture I'm referring to.

[andy_eade]

Yep that's the picture. What looks like 2x4's are the ceiling joists - the Firestop is the 5 or so inch wide piece of drywall that is placed up against the first wall framing so that once the second wall is framed and finished with drywall - it will have a "lid" so to speak which will prevent fire from spreading up through the walls.

You won't regret your investment in Rod's book I promise you - it sounds like it'll be here just in time!

[afavreau]

Thanks Andy, I understand now!

My first wall is already build though. I'm only removing the first layer of gypse in order to build my wall correctly, so I'm not sure how it's made up there, but I'll submit this to my contractor for sure. I understand that this is not for acoustical purposes, but to prevent fire from spreading between walls and this is obviously important.

Thanks

[afavreau]

Doesn't that connect the two walls though, thus defeating the purpose of having space between the two walls?

[Soundman2020]

Yes, but walls can be covered with absorbtive material, windows not

The drywall doesn't touch the other side: there's a small gap around the edge, filled with acoustic caulk. so the drywall is nailed down on one side, but "floats" on the other side.

- Stuart -

[afavreau]

Stuart

This is was the plan for the ceiling (see below), but after reading Rod's book:

a) Do you think it would be better to add a layer or two of gyproc between #2 and #3?
b) Also, is pink fibreglass fine instead of Safe n' Sound rock wool for the ceiling?
c) Would it make sense to replace the last layer of ⅝" gyproc (#9) by a ½" Gyproc?

Thanks

Andre

1-Remove the existing Gyproc ceiling
2-Make sure the studs of the walls are disconnected with upstairs
3-Put all the Roxul Safe n' Sound we can up there between the studs in the midst the wires
4- Space
5-Build a new stud structure resting on the new walls on the side with Roxul again
6-MDF
7-Gyproc ⅝"
test the noise level, then if needed, add:
8-Green Glue
9-Gyproc ⅝"