SIMO Studio - Construction Phase

[simo]

… Update Part-3

Time for the cloth…I went Blue for the Live room and Red for the Control room.

cloth stapled to the wood strips and cut off the excess

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And finally I added the wood trims all around the cloth to cover the staples:

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end of part-3...

[simo]

… Update Part-4 (Final )

Time to hang them up (can't find any more excuses to postpone it!)

Control room:

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Live room:

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That's all for now.

Next slot resonators and cloth cover frames for the rest of the walls…. hope I will speed up a bit.

Ciao

Simo

[Finck]

Hi Simo, really nice clouds!!

[Bigsby]

As always, Simo, just BEAUTIFUL! You claim to be slow, but the work you're doing warrants it. Really looks spectacular!

[Ro]

oooooh, yeah. It is slowly coming together. And, as usual, rich details and perfect planning. It pays of, clearly.
Hope it "sounds" as good as is looks.
ro

[DasProductions]

wow, that is beautiful!

[simo]

Thanks a lot for the encouragement guys. It does mean a lot !!

[simo]

Floor time

Firstly I used the self levelling compound to compensate for some unevenness in the concrete floor (no pics….don't know how but it did managed to escape my photographic rampage )

I then applied this liquid damp proof membrane

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(3 coats)… It's cool as when it dries out it becomes a thin waterproofed rubber layer - really cool !
On top of that I put down the fibreboard underlay plus a thinner (3mm) foam underlay.

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…and this is the result:

Live room

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and

Control room

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My question is:

I've been advised to use these cork strips

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to fill in the (15mm) expansion gap between the floor and the walls….

A) Would this be ok (as the cork is quite flexible) ?
- or -
B) perhaps use the foam strips often used in the walls expansions gap ?

Expansion-Foam.jpg

- or -
C) am I better to leave the gap totally empty ?

Many Thanks in anticipation


Ciao

Simo

[Ro]

Flooring always makes a room more pretty, donnit! I wonder why you didn't just glue the floor to the existing concrete/rubberlayer. Making it "one" with the existing floor will make your floor more quiet (less resonance).

anyhow, since your floor isn't decoupled from the wall (or vice versa) it doesn't matter what you use to fill the gaps. I did it with transparent sealant (kit).

[John Sayers]

Simo - when I started out in studios at Armstrongs in Melbourne in the 60s cork panels were our 703.

[simo]

Thanks for info Ro !

John, good to hear that
I actually used those cork strips today for the expansion gap… they are quite soft, so should allow for any slight stretch the wood floor might do with changes in temperature, whilst keeping it more compact as well.

[simo]

Hello all,

hope you had a great end and even better start of the year !

I just finished the slat resonators on both CR and LR, and am now finishing off the cloth frames for the remaining walls …I'm sorting out the pics and I'll post them asap.

As, in the meantime, I'm shopping around for the glasses for the windows, I've got a quick question for you:

How many mm smaller should the glass be compared to the actual window's frame, so it is not too tight? what would you advise?
(obviously I will seal those few mm gap)
Would 5mm (I mean 2.5mm all around it) be ok ?

Also, I read it's good procedure to place EPDM setting blocks under the glass to help settling it centred in the frame…but what thickness should the setting blocks be in your opinion?

Many Thanks in anticipation as usual !!


Simo

[Soundman2020]

How many mm smaller should the glass be compared to the actual window's frame, so it is not too tight? what would you advise? (obviously I will seal those few mm gap) Would 5mm (I mean 2.5mm all around it) be ok ?

That's probably fine, but do check that you have enough space to be able to tilt the glass into position! You normally set the bottom edge in place while holding the glass at an angle, then tilt it up to vertical. Make sure that there's enough clearance between the glass and the frame so you can do that.

Also, I read it's good procedure to place EPDM setting blocks under the glass to help settling it centred in the frame…but what thickness should the setting blocks be in your opinion?

Thick enough to do the job!

Seriously, get whatever your glazier recommends for the size (weight) of glass you are using, and use enough of them to support the glass without over-compressing the rubber.

- Stuart -

[simo]

Thanks for your answer Stuart.

I think I settled for a 50' roll of 1/8" x 3/4" (3.2mm x 19mm) neoprene setting block.

The other option I found is 3/16" (5mm) setting blocks, so the gap under the glass will end up being bigger than needed in my opinion, even if I will completely fill that in obviously… also, the other down side it's that It comes in 7/8" width, thus it's not ideal as it will require trimming it as well…

I'll be put up 15mm laminated glasses, so that plus the thickness of the glazing tape (which, as far as I can see it is commonly 1/16" or 1.5mm) between glass and both inner and outer stops should give me approx the 19mm width of the setting blocks I'm going for (mentioned above).
…playing with millimetres here y'know


anyway, Update time (Part-1):

Frames for the cloth made with the usual 9mm MDF:
Control Room Rear:

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removed the frames and stapled the thin plastic sheet:

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all coming together

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Control Room Front:
under the speaker soffit

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and overall view

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... more to come ...

[simo]

Update (Part-2):

Slot Resonators…

Live Room:

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looking from CR

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and Control Room:

Right-hand side

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Left-hand side

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Looking from the front of the room, between the speakers

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here artistically from the floor

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and from the Live room

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…getting there…

next installing glasses and door/windows architraves


Ciao !

Simo