After a bit of a break(unwanted), I'm back with more Q's...my search turned up nothing concrete regarding door framing. I have some very heavy solid-core doors (36 X 83.5") to use but need to get the framing completed. A while back Steve posted a link to a do-it-yourself site that was good for installing a door casing, but I am wondering about some details regarding the framing: The finished flooring is not down yet...do I compensate accordingly when framing the door, adding additional height based on the height of the finished floor? In other words, if my finish floor will be 1/2", do I then raise the top framing piece another 1/2" to compensate? So, door is 83.5" tall, so the framing piece that will be ABOVE the door should be 83.5+1/4+2=85.75" above the NON-finish floor?? (I've been told to leave a 2" gap all around the door when framing it in.)
Additionally, can the framing for the door be right at the edge of the floated floor or does it have to be set in several inches?
Well that's enough for now-thanks!
dean
Door Framing
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Aaronw
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From what I've been told...don't know if its right...but, when roughing in for a door, allow 2" on top and 2" for the sides.. (eg: 32x80 door, rough it in at 34x82). And if I remember correctly, that is w/ a finished floor. If you're adding 1/2" or 3/4" hardwoods, I believe you want to add that to the rough in.
I may be wrong, but this is what I've been told to date.
As far as the frame on the edge of the floating floor, I'm doing the same. I don't think there's an issue there. ??
Aaron
I may be wrong, but this is what I've been told to date.
As far as the frame on the edge of the floating floor, I'm doing the same. I don't think there's an issue there. ??
Aaron
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cadesignr
- Senior Member
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- Joined: Mon Mar 03, 2003 4:25 pm
- Location: Oregon USA
Hello Aaron, I'm certainly no expert, but heres my shot at doors/jambs/heads but I haven't finished the threshold details yet.
My advice is leave NOTHING to chance. Detail down to 1/16th", as your not dealing with home depot stuff. Studio iso is only as good as the weakest link, so here is my first details of "weak links". This is based on 2 frame/2leaf construction, with RC on the studio side,
stud fastening of the Gyp board on the CR side..or other room side. Of course, these are my first trys, so they are subject to group thrashing
Which is exactly why I'm posting them. To tear apart the ideas for revision. Well, hope this gives you some idea. If it were me, I'd find out EXACTLY what hardware, wall dim's, trim, and ANYTHING that you are going to use and PLAN PLAN PLAN. Nothing is worse than tearing out a heavy door framing for lack of forethought. Hindsight sucks. 
my .02.
fitZ
btw, it'll take two replys to post these. The first is the hinge jamb.
The second is the header. Maybe
My advice is leave NOTHING to chance. Detail down to 1/16th", as your not dealing with home depot stuff. Studio iso is only as good as the weakest link, so here is my first details of "weak links". This is based on 2 frame/2leaf construction, with RC on the studio side,
stud fastening of the Gyp board on the CR side..or other room side. Of course, these are my first trys, so they are subject to group thrashing
Which is exactly why I'm posting them. To tear apart the ideas for revision. Well, hope this gives you some idea. If it were me, I'd find out EXACTLY what hardware, wall dim's, trim, and ANYTHING that you are going to use and PLAN PLAN PLAN. Nothing is worse than tearing out a heavy door framing for lack of forethought. Hindsight sucks. my .02.fitZ
btw, it'll take two replys to post these. The first is the hinge jamb.
The second is the header. Maybe
alright, breaks over , back on your heads......
