Hi - I'm just finishing construction of my new project studio. One major part that i am looking for help on is how to seal the door to the ISO room ... I have cinderblock and drywall on the 2 outside walls and quadruple drywall (2 inside and 2 outside) and sound insulation on the inside walls as well as double drywall and sound insualtion in the ceiling.
but I am struggling to find good advice on what to use for the sealing the door up.
any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!
leo
Help Sealing an ISO room
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daiuto99
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 12:47 am
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dymaxian
- Senior Member
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 7:21 am
- Location: Madison, Wisconsin
A well-made pre-hung door should be a piece of cake to seal. If you bought the door at Home Depot, ask someone there to come look at your particular model, and then show you what kind of weatherstripping you should use to seal it.
I had to use crazy glue on my weatherstripping, but that's because it's sticking to rough lumber and not a finished door. My studio is rough- I'm not worried much about how it looks. *shrug*
Kase
www.minemusic.net
I had to use crazy glue on my weatherstripping, but that's because it's sticking to rough lumber and not a finished door. My studio is rough- I'm not worried much about how it looks. *shrug*
Kase
www.minemusic.net
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knightfly
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6976
- Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2003 11:11 am
- Location: West Coast, USA
Could you try again to attach your pic? Not seeing it...
Pre-hung doors are set in place with shims to get final positioning right, but that leaves big gaps around the frame. You'll need to take a slender tool and poke fiberglas in between everything you can, cut all shims off flush with surface and caulk both sides thoroughly or you'll have a big acoustic "hole" around the door.
Here's a general guide to door hanging, but remember this is NOT an acoustic site - before the casing goes on, both sides need to be sealed airtight -
http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_ ... d=35694582
Also, if your door's threshold is an aluminum extrusion they are always hollow. Turn it upside down and fill it with drywall mud, strike it off flush and let it set. Then caulk in place. Holes are your ENEMY. You can use the existing screw holes, but will have to drill them after the drywall mud is set up. Then squirt a dab of caulk into the hole before you insert the screws, caulk the underside, and do it.
The bottom is the toughest to seal, because it gets walked on. I'm short on time right now, but will try to remember you need info on seals. Please "bump" this thread if I don't get to it in a day or two... Steve
Pre-hung doors are set in place with shims to get final positioning right, but that leaves big gaps around the frame. You'll need to take a slender tool and poke fiberglas in between everything you can, cut all shims off flush with surface and caulk both sides thoroughly or you'll have a big acoustic "hole" around the door.
Here's a general guide to door hanging, but remember this is NOT an acoustic site - before the casing goes on, both sides need to be sealed airtight -
http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_ ... d=35694582
Also, if your door's threshold is an aluminum extrusion they are always hollow. Turn it upside down and fill it with drywall mud, strike it off flush and let it set. Then caulk in place. Holes are your ENEMY. You can use the existing screw holes, but will have to drill them after the drywall mud is set up. Then squirt a dab of caulk into the hole before you insert the screws, caulk the underside, and do it.
The bottom is the toughest to seal, because it gets walked on. I'm short on time right now, but will try to remember you need info on seals. Please "bump" this thread if I don't get to it in a day or two... Steve